Enabling Preheat mitigates this prior to printing, otherwise the printer thinks the bed is sufficiently hot and starts printing. The bed temp could be reading 75C and the build plate (without the glass) is 45C. I checked this with a contact probe and with a FLIR camera. Only power cycling the printer resolves this. Removing and inserting the card and then refreshing has no effect. SD card is working one minute, and then it no longer works until a power cycle. As a result I'm using the SD card only now. My printer is 10 feet from my WiFi router. Sometimes the connection will just drop randomly and not coming back for minutes at a time. I have to restart Up Studio 3 to get it to come back. selecting filament type) makes it lock up and frequently force close. Wifi seems to be crazily unreliable on this printer. Wifi drops all the time and Wand server force closes I've also checked and re-seated the black FFC ribbon cable to the X-axis stepper assembly, but the problem remains.

Prints are at standard speeds and settings. Not excessively hot, so it doesn't seem to be overworked. I've checked the stepper temperature with a FLIR camera and to the touch - it's about 45C when this happens. This can be 'resolved' in one of two ways: Power cycle the printer, at which point the X-axis comes back to life, or go into Information and hit Reset to reset the printer. The picture below shows the result of this - the horzontal mess closest to the camera is when it stopped working and the one further back is where I moved the X-axis out of the way by hand to see what was going on (the white stuff on the build plate is gluestick residue). The extruder head can be moved by hand freely while the Y-axis and Z-axis continue to function. Mid-way through the print, at a random time, the X-axis just gives up the ghost and stops working. This has resulted in failed prints for each of the fourteen prints I've attempted on this printer so far. X-Axis stepper gives up mid-print, every print I suspect I have a hair-trigger sensor - I get a flash of the red LED on acceleration and deceleration of the head, or even with the lightest of touches in any direction with my finger.

I then removed and reseated the extruder head and subsequently got wild results, until I gave the head a gentle knock and it went back to normal. Cables are out of the way and unfouled.Įdit: On a hunch, I removed the filament and feed tubes from the extruder and got more consistent results. There are no stray bits of plastic on the bed. The end of the nozzle is clear of filament. Everything is tightly fastened and secured. I'm not sure why this is the case, except to suspect that the strain guage method of detecting contact with the bed is inaccurate. You can see the results of seven sequential runs here: On the wonky 2mm-out runs, measurement point 10 barely moves the Z-axis down before registering a hit. Each time I perform auto calibration I get one of two results: something sane or something about 2mm out with a single zeroed value (measurement point 10). I have manually levelled the bed as instructed, initialised the printer, and then performed auto calibration. I am getting endlessly inconsistent results of auto calibration. two mainboards fried in the same place, according to a post on the Tiertime new forums). I'm curious to hear if anyone else has experienced similar problems or any other type of issue? (e.g. As a result, this printer is completely unusable. Unfortunately I've experienced fundamental problems with the Cetus 2 that have resulted in failed prints every single time. As a happy owner of a modified Cetus3D MkII I had high hopes for this printer.

I received my Cetus 2 a couple of days ago and installed it today.

Cetus3d restart print